# NuseReal
Peter Hulm's Global Geneva articles
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International artists cherish this 'fairytale' Swiss village
Unless you know it, the Valais village of Feschel — with essentially two roads — might seem the last place to stage an international art show. But for the fourth time, on 18 April 2026 Feschel became the proud home for a three-month display of paintings from 11 Swiss and expatriate artists along its main street.
This tiny community in the hills above Leuk, perched on a rocky promontory whose watery canyon goes all the way down to the valley 1000m below, dates back to the 5th century.
Its name predates the Celts, and comes from the Ligurian Vexli/Veselli (Mountain). Though its altitude is only 1280m, its traditional coat of arms makes clear it has high hills soaring all around it. And the road proudly delineated on the coat of arms indicates Feschel's historical significance.
From medieval times until the end of the 19th century the village offered a main commercial route for mule and donkey trains linking the French with German parts of the Upper Valais.
One indication of its importance: Feschel has had a chapel in the village since 1499. In 1850 its population was recorded as 101. But in November 1904 fire destroyed a large number of the buildings. Today the village has more like 26 year-round residents, but as many 'sunbirds' have bought or rent its traditional houses for the non-winter seasons. Today Feschel is inscribed in official records as one of Switzerland's 1200 villages of national importance. A Swiss artist friend of mine describes it as a 'farytale' village for its authentic Swiss flavour and sense of community as well as its openness to outsiders.
Despite its distinguished past, you will have difficulty in finding information about Feschel in guide books and on the Internet. Since 2000 the village has joined with the hillside town of Guttet as a single commune. The Regional National Park website rates it as good for visitors who are 50+, apart from its spectacular view of the Rhone valley. However, a walkers site also lists several more demanding treks around Guttet-Feschel.
The village has earned a place in local history because of an attack on the neighbouring village of Erschmatt on 11 June 1868, Corpus Christi. At six in the evening some 20 persons from Feschel and Guttet (the next village down the hill) — "a band of brigands" according to the official complaint — invaded Erschmatt harassing people on the streets. One old man was beaten to the ground, as was a man coming out of the church. "Neither were women spared" and several people were injured by stones. The local parish priest described it as a "revolutionary spectacle" and said the aim was to set fire to homes. The gang roamed through Erschmatt's streets until 1 am.
It turned out this was all at the instigation of an Erschmatt inhabitant and his son who had relatives in Feschel, but why we don't know. According to Sion's official records, the dispute was settled later that year when Feschel promised to harass Erschmatt no more and paid CHF300 into the local school fund (the maximum fine could have been CHF3000). The two localities are friends now.
The Feschel art show is organized by Renata Seczawa from Poland, who works in Geneva at the United Nations and has a part-time house in the village. Also playing a large part in the exhibition is painter Pauline Rey, originally from Canada, who has made her home in Feschel but also spends time in India. Swiss artists from the valley have also contributed works.
To ensure that the exhibition's paintings hanging on the wooden walls of Feschel's chalets and storehouses can resist most weathers, this year's display is mainly of acrylic paintings on wood.
At the forefront of many of the paintings this year stands Rainer Maria Rilke, almost a local poet, who died in Switzerland 100 years ago. Rilke, born as René Karl Wilhelm Johann Josef Maria Rilke in Prague when it was part of German-speaking Bohemia, spent his last years not far away in the Château de Muzot at Veyras near Sierre and is buried further up towards the Upper Valais in Raron. A Rilke Foundation in Sierre has a permanent exhibition related to his liffe and works.
Rilke's poems, his image and life provide the subject for many of the Feschel paintings. But the striking landscapes of the Upper Valais are another major theme featured in the 50 or so works on show.
Both themes combine at Wiler in an audio presentation of Rilke's Valaisan poems with a walk through what is called the Lyrikweg, an audio excusion trail from the Wiler church. This is a unique experience in the Valais canton. At eight points, each with seating, Rilke poems are presented in German, French and Valais dialect. You can hear them if you have earphones: they can be downloaded directly to your smartphone via a QR code or from the website.
On 25 July at 8pm, Lyrikweg is organizing a party and bonfire entitled Zur blauen Stunde (at the blue hour), For visitors, a bus from Leuk takes visitors to the Wiler church. It is available until 1 December 2027. Lyrikweg's website says: "The trail leads to the Riggen, an almost untouched steppe landscape offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys."
For those needing a place to take a break from the short walk through the Feschel exhibition, the organizers have provided a Twint-operated self-service bar with a portable cooler and seats in the shade. More demanding customers can find restaurants further down the valley, and part-time local stores with coffee and refreshments in Erschmatt and Wiler. The Feschel exhibition runs until 18 September,
